Travel blog · Est. 1999 · 146 countries

Unexpected Places. Since 1999

Exotic itineraries and raw narratives to inspire independent travelers and audacious backpackers — Afghanistan, Yemen, Iraq, Somalia, North Korea and beyond.

15.15° N — 48.05° E
Wadi Dawan · Hadhramaut · Yemen
Afghanistan Yemen Iraq North Korea Antarctica Somalia Sudan Saudi Arabia Transnistria Mauritania Syria Mali  Afghanistan Yemen Iraq North Korea Antarctica Somalia Sudan Saudi Arabia Transnistria Mauritania Syria Mali  

I don't write about the places everyone goes. I write about the ones they tell you to avoidthe ones that change you. Hitchhiking to Timbuktu, wintering across Russia at −31°C, sailing past the Antarctic Circle, driving solo through northern Afghanistan.

0Days traveling
0Countries
0Continents
0Cities
0UNESCO sites
01 — STORIES

Fresh from the road

All stories →
Dawn at the Nouadhibou airport gate seen through a truck windscreen
Mauritania/2003

Broke in Nouadhibou: the Fish Cargo Flight to Lisbon

No money, no ticket — hidden behind a fish-truck seat at dawn, flown home with the lobster.

Red decorated Tata goods truck on the Zojila mountain road
India/2016

Hitchhiking the Srinagar–Leh Highway over Zojila

A painted Tata truck, walls of snow, convoys — and chai from a battered pot at altitude.

A woman with an orange backpack standing among ruined buildings
Census/2026

Solo Female Travel Blogs: 201 Verified Alive

The biggest genre travel blogging ever produced — every blog checked by hand. One in three is gone.

Maps spread across a dashboard — the travel blogs census
Census/2026

Travel Blogs Worth Following: the 2026 Census

I re-checked all 2,111 blogs this site ever listed — one in three is dead. The 1,375 still alive, verified one by one.

Flags

Flags of Asia — 49 meanings, and where I saw them

The Ledger

146 countries, 28 years — documented, with receipts

The reconstructed Ishtar Gate at Babylon
UNESCO/Iraq

UNESCO Sites of Iraq — All 6 Inscribed, Visited

Babylon, Erbil, Hatra, Samarra, Ashur and the Marshes — through my own visits since 2009.

A camper van on a mountain road in northern Iraq
Van Life/2018

Van Life Iraq: 1,638 km With My House on Wheels

A month across northern Iraq by camper van — evacuated from Qiz Qapan in the middle of the night.

A car on a snow-covered road at sunset
Russia/2005

Driving Russia in Winter, at Minus 31

4,383 km solo — Saint Petersburg, Moscow and the Golden Ring in the dead of February.

The destroyed Old City of Mosul seen from above
Iraq/2018

Mosul, One Year After ISIS

The flattened Old City and the living city beside it — less than a year after liberation.

Kazakhstan

Staying with Kazakh nomads in the Ile Alatau

Mali

How I got to Timbuktu: 22 hours across the desert

Sudan

Egypt to Sudan by ferry: Aswan to Wadi Halfa

Syria · Guide

UNESCO sites in Syria: I visited all 6

Syria

Crossing Idlib during the war

Pamir Highway

24 hours of van life in no man's land

Morocco

Crossing the Sahara on a Motobécane moped

Afghanistan

Driving Afghanistan in 2012: my overland road trip

Ethiopia

Feeding wild hyenas in Harar at night

Morocco

Amazigh triple wedding in the Sahara Desert

Nepal

One week in a Buddhist monastery in Lumbini

The Author

A life on the road since 1999 — 146 countries

02 — EXPEDITION LOG

25 years on the road

Drag · it also scrolls itself →
2001

First solo backpacking

Hitchhiking Central & Eastern Europe — Yugoslavia, Romania, Bulgaria, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland.

The beginning
2003

Balkans by backpack

Macedonia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bulgaria, Turkey, Greece and Poland — solo through the Balkans.

Backpacking
2003

Portugal → Senegal by thumb

Solo hitchhiking to West Africa. Flew home on a fish cargo plane out of Mauritania.

Hitchhiking
2004

13,000 km overland to Gambia

Portugal → Senegal & Gambia via Morocco and Mauritania. Held two days at the berm near Gueltat Zemmur.

Overland
2004

First Central Asia

Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan — evacuated from Tashkent after suicide bombings; Kung-Fu To'a in Iran; overland to Turkey.

Central Asia
2005

Russian winter drive

One month, 5,000 km, −33°C. A road trip most people call a very bad idea.

Road trip
2007

Cuba road trip

Two weeks and 2,900 km through the island's countryside and less famous corners.

Road trip
2008

Egypt, Israel, Jordan, Palestine

Backpacking across the Middle East.

Backpacking
2008

Banger rally to Armenia

4,000 km in a 1986 Moskvitch from Hungary — right after the Russian-Georgian war.

Rally
2008

Caucasian Challenge

4,000 km in a 1986 Moskvitch from Hungary to Armenia — weeks after the Russian-Georgian war.

Rally
2009

Mauritanian Sahara 4×4

Overland along the mined railway corridor between Nouadhibou and Choum.

Expedition
2009

A country that doesn't exist

Romania, Moldova, Ukraine — and Transnistria.

Unrecognized
2009

Northern Iraq

Solo hitchhiking and driving through Iraqi Kurdistan.

Overland
2011

South Sudan, Day One

Crossed from Uganda at dawn on independence day — among the first travelers into the world’s newest country.

First
2011

Rescued in the Congo

South Sudan → Uganda via the DRC. Surrounded by a mob, rescued by Moroccan UN peacekeepers — then malaria.

Survival
2011

Oman road trip

3,000 km through the Sultanate.

Road trip
2012

Central Asia Rally

6,500 km banger rally from Hungary to Kyrgyzstan.

Rally
2012

Solo through Afghanistan

Driving my own car through Mazar-i-Sharif, Baghlan, Kholm and Kunduz.

Overland
2012

One month in Iran

Backpacking the country end to end.

Backpacking
2013

18 months around the world

The big one — RTW from 2013 into 2014.

RTW
2013

The Guianas

Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana — South America's forgotten corner.

Backpacking
2013

550 hours on the Amazon

By boat through Brazil, Peru and Ecuador, sleeping in a hammock.

By water
2014

Quito → Ushuaia

Four months and 13,350 km driving South America top to bottom.

Road trip
2014

Antarctica — continent 7

Two-week expedition crossing the Antarctic Circle at 66° south.

7 continents
2014

All of Central America

Panama to Mexico by backpack.

Backpacking
2014

North Korea

Joining a political thematic tour into the D.P.R.K.

Rare
2015

Tunisia in two weeks

Solo around the country.

Backpacking
2015

Southern Africa loop

One month, 9,000 km — Zimbabwe, South Africa, Eswatini, Lesotho, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia.

Road trip
2015

An active volcano

Climbing Fogo in the Cape Verde archipelago.

Climb
2016

Deep Iraq

Baghdad, Najaf, Karbala and Basra.

Deep travel
2017

Egypt → Sudan by ferry

19 hours from Aswan to Wadi Halfa, sleeping on deck under the stars.

By water
2017

One year of van life

38,000 km across Central Asia and the Middle East — the Pamir Highway crossed in winter, with a toddler.

Van life
2018

Mosul after liberation

Walking the old city six months after the war for it ended.

Frontline
2018

Hadhramaut, Yemen

Exploring the valley of mud-brick skyscrapers.

Remote
2018

Saudi Arabia solo

Two weeks and 3,000 km behind the wheel across the Kingdom.

Road trip
2020

Syria's M5 through Idlib

Driving the reopened highway during the war — airstrikes and tank fire within earshot.

Frontline
2023

Return to Afghanistan

Back under new rule, eleven years after driving it alone.

Return
2025

Return to Syria

A different country — reaching the Ancient Villages after fourteen years out of reach.

Return
2026

Still exploring

Leading group expeditions to Yemen, Afghanistan, Iraq, Egypt and the Sahara.

Next chapter
João Leitão

Hi, I'm João.

Author of this adventure travel blog, sharing stories from 146 countries across all seven continents .

I'm also the CEO of an adventure tour operator specializing in unique, off-the-beaten-path destinations. When I'm not writing, you'll find me leading desert trips from Marrakech or guiding groups through Afghanistan, Yemen and Iraq.

Lonely Planet Pathfinder Traveling since 1999 Tour operator CEO PT · EN author

My full story →

04 — DESTINATIONS

Nowhere ordinary

All country guides →
03 — GUARANTEED DEPARTURES

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